Those We Have Lost: Southbury Road, Enfield

By on Jun 4, 2011 in History, Latest | 10 comments

For many, many years, there were effectively no new football grounds built in Britain. Over the last quarter of a century, though dozens upon dozens of clubs have bulldozed their ancestral homes and moved on to pastures new. This summer, we hope to run a series of  articles on the subject of Britain’s lost football grounds, and we’re starting this off with a repost from 2009 on the subject of Southbury Road, the late, lamented home of Enfield Football Club. If you are interested in getting involved in this little series, feel free to drop us a line through the Contact box at the top of this page.

During the summer of 2007, I decided, apropos nothing, to take a day out to revisit some of the haunts of my childhood. I took the train out of London from Liverpool Street railway station and spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering through Lower and Upper Edmonton. My train journey ended at Bush Hill Park station. I walked the length of St Marks Road, a road which seemed so impossibly long when I was nine years old but now takes barely five minutes to cover, across Main Avenue, a road that four generations of my family grew up in the sight of, through the estate that I lived in for five years and which replaced the rows of terraces that my grandparents lived most of their adult lives in and across Lincoln Road. I passed the Percival Club, where my father and grandfather had, thirty years apart, both been the snooker champion, and made it up to Southbury Road, the main road that cuts through Enfield like its aorta. If I turned right, I’d end up at the site of what was occasionally known as “The Stadium”, the home of Enfield Football Club. And I couldn’t do it. I turned left, and walked into Enfield Town instead. Sometimes it’s best to just leave those childhood memories as they are.

Southbury Road was the first football ground that I ever watched a match at. I don’t know if the sense of scale was overblown by the distorted sense of scale that came from being six years old when I first went there, but it always felt like a “proper” football ground. By the mid-1980s, the floodlights were towering constructions, peering out from behind the trees that marked the edge of the playing fields that bordered the ground on two sides. As one turned right from Bryn-yr-Mawr Road, the side and back of the main stand seemed massive. The view from inside this stand was sufficiently high to feel like watching the match on “Match Of The Day”. We occasionally made visits to other non-league grounds in the area, but few of them felt as much like a “proper” ground – a scaled-down version of a Football League ground – as Southbury Road. There were other idiosyncrasies which, with the benefit of hindsight, might not have been quite as individual as I have made them in my memory: the training goals stacked up in one corner of the stadium, the slowly decaying white hut that sat at the back of one of the terraces behind the goal and the abandoned, boarded up turnstiles in the far corner of the ground.

In purely aesthetic terms, Southbury Road was not perfect, though it was lent a splash of individuality by the liberal amounts of navy blue and white paint everywhere (for a while, even the bases of the goal posts were painted blue), the white picket fence that surrounded the pitch (removed after being used as an impromptu intrument of war by Lincoln City supporters angered by a 1-0 defeat in an FA Trophy quarter-final match in 1988) and the arrangement of huts that made up the Supporters Club, the club shop and the tea hut. The ground was far from perfect in some respects. The terracing behind each goal was far too shallow, meaning that only people over six feet tall could get a decent view if there was anything like a crowd present, and the “terrace” that ran the length of the pitch opposite the stand was made of compressed earth until it was concreted in the late 1980s. It was also a big, open ground, which sometimes made it difficult for the crowd to get lifted for a big match.

And then there were the Starlight Rooms. How suggestible do you have to be to believe that a small club-cum-cabaret venue built into the corner of a non-league football ground was one of London’s finest live entertainment attractions? About as gullible as I was at the age of eight or nine, I guess. Tom Jones had played there once, I was told, as had Bob Monkhouse and Paul Daniels. Out there in the real world, though, the Starlight Rooms had lost much of its veneer of glamour by the mid-1980s. The smell of stale Watneys and the smoke of Players Number Six cigarettes hung in the air there as the outside world moved on. It was the sale of the Starlight Rooms by Tom Unwin to Tony Lazarou that precipitated the crisis that was to engulf the club in the late 1990s and eventually kill it.

When the crowd were really in the mood, though, they were really in the mood. When Enfield played Wimbledon in an FA Cup Second Round match on a bitterly cold Tuesday evening in December 1981, my father decided that it was too cold to stand on the terrace and bought us tickets for the stand. It was my first time from that vantage point and it felt, to an impressionable nine year old boy, like being invited into a private club. When Enfield attacked, a low rumbling noise started up from behind me. It was the sound of the regulars stamping their feet on the wooden floorboards to get behind the team. There were probably less than 3,000 in the ground that night, but on a pitch hewn from solid rock Enfield skidded and slid to an improbable 4-1 win against a team that would be winning the FA Cup seven years later. In those heady days – FA Trophy winners in 1982 and 1988, Football Conference winners in 1983 and 1986 – it felt like life was one long summer. Those days wouldn’t last forever, though.

By the late 1980s, the sun had started to set on the real glory days. When automatic promotion and relegation between the Football League and the Football Conference in 1988, a number of clubs upped their game, either paying higher wages or turning completely professional. Enfield were soon eclipsed by their local rivals Barnet, who were supported by their ticket tout chairman Stan Flashman, and they were relegated to the Isthmian League in 1990. The club stumbled and stuttered there and, by the time the championship was won in 1995, the Football Conference was sufficiently unsatisfied with the club’s financial position to deny them promotion back. The decline was slow and painful. In 1996, with rugby union having turned professional, local side Saracens needed a bigger stadium and moved to Southbury Road. With a haste which was been a signal of what was to come, the club demolished the entire Playing Field side of the ground and erected a temporary seated stand but Saracens decamped to Vicarage Road after just one year, a year later, the scaffolding came down and Enfield were left with a ground that was only barely up to scratch and an apparent sudden need to leave for pastures new.

They left Southbury Road in 1999, but Enfield FC was a piece of my past by then. My family moved to St Albans in 1982, and my Saturday visits to North London became more and more sparse as my grandparents moved from their homes, into care homes and eventually on from this world. Occasional visits during the 1990s showed a club that was in a slow decline, one which hadn’t moved with the times. After two years homeless and playing at such unlikely “home venues” as St Albans, Ware and Boreham Wood, the supporters finally gave up on any pretence that Lazarou was in any way serious about moving back to the London Borough of Enfield and started their own club. Enfield Town played at Brimsdown Rovers’ Goldsdown Road from the club’s foundation in 2001, although a home of their own is now just around the corner. The QE2 Athletics Stadium isn’t an ideal venue, but it is barely half a mile from the old Southbury Road site and it will be a home of their own. They plan to move in there in September, of this year, and it won’t be a minute too soon. Crowds at Town have stagnated at around the 200 level and the new club may have lost a generation of supporters with their exilein Brmsdown. The other side of the schism plodded on until Enfield FC folded in the summer of 2007, but instead of merging back with Town they continue to plod along as Enfield (1893) in the Essex Senior League. Football in the borough has felt considerably weaker for this continued division.

The seasons of mists and mellow fruitfulness of my youth are gone forever. Warm, lazy August evenings when you drag yourself to the first matches of the season, awaking from the slumber of the summer with home league matches against Trowbridge Town or Boston United feel almost as if they happened to someone else. Snow piled up around the pitch in mid-winter and the chronic worry, bordering on panic, that the match would be called off and that I would be sentenced to an afternoon of shopping or stranded in front of the television at my grandmother’s flat watching the ITV Seven. The excitement of seeing crowds the length of the ground at the turnstiles (or even – gasp! – all-ticket matches) as the less committed turned out for Second and Third Round matches in the FA Cup. The thrill of the end of season run-in, scanning the newspapers for results and league tables or phoning people lucky enough to be able to trek the length of the country for away matches in the FA Trophy to find out what had happened. And finally, every couple of years or so, a trophy presentation of some sort. The Alliance Premier League trophy or, in the surreallistically glamourous setting of Wembley Stadium or The Hawthorns, the FA Trophy. The realisation that, in some tiny way, your little corner of London would be remembered for something. It may not have been that significant in the overall scheme of things, but I’ll never know such glamour and excitement again.

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    10 Comments

  1. A beutiful article, so accurate with my experiences of Enfield, without the Family interaction. However, i’m still in Enfield and am looking forward to ETFC’s QE Life from Sept 2011

    Ram Ismail

    June 6, 2011

  2. Agree with Ram. A very well written piece that has brought back many good memories. As a child I used to sell programmes outside the ground in the 80s (REMEMBER LENNY??!!). My reward…50p, a free programme and entry into the ground! I still remember the 3-0 defeat of Port Vale in the FA Cup 3rd round replay and then the glory of 33,000 at White Hart Lane. My first match…a 78/79 league match against Carshalton and a 3-0 win. My only disagreement with the piece is the less than ideal QE Stadium. It will be ETFC’s home and has great potential for the future…BRING IT ON!!!

    Steve 'Happy' Morgan

    June 7, 2011

  3. It was our home and we loved it. It should have stayed our home but we were stitched up.

    Bob Monkhouse certainly performed at the Starlight Rooms — I remember standing in the little corridor between the football club bar and the Starlight and he was so much better than on TV (excepting his performance as Johnny Saveloy in Rex The Runt of course!). I also remember seeing Martha Reeves and the Vandellas there when Kim Weston turned up unexpectedly and joined in.

    And I was there when Oxford City got turned over 3-0 but their manager (a certain Bobby Moore) was given clear passage to the bar! Don’t know what happened to his assistant that day — some bloke called Harry Redknapp!

    And then there were the cup runs and seeing Enfield face the only player ever to have got winners medals for the FA Amateur Cup and the European Cup, or seeing Mark Pye stuff a toilet roll down the back of a Torquay player’s shirt…

    I loved every minute of it and the same goes for every minute of following Enfield Town, with most of the former supporters of the now defunct Enfield FC.

    I would love to think that the Queen Elizabeth Stadium will give us the same opportunities. It’s already looking to be the most picturesque football ground in the Borough (no doubt Winchmore Hill will have something to say about that, though!).

    Phil D.

    Phil.

    Phil Davison

    June 7, 2011

  4. Lenny was my uncle all of the hillseys were fanactical Es supporters i myself used to sell programmes at the Es 3p each at the time and was taken to all the games by my uncles and we had a fair old team at the time unfortunately all of my uncles have passed on now but i still remember those great trips all over the country following the Es

    peter hills

    July 15, 2011

  5. Great article walked many of them steps myself also about LENNY his ashes were scattered on the stadium pitch a fitting end to a loyal supporter

    peter hills

    July 16, 2011

  6. cracking article – brings back all the great memories of EFC, my first game my dad took me to was a pre-season friendly 1975-6 v a strong arsenal team, E’s won 4-0 and i cried my eyes out (as an arsenal supporter) many happy days sellin progs – from 1982- about 1987
    loved the evening cup games best of all – the massacre of Exeter in the FA cup will live long in the memory, port vale was another. some of the great players as well,
    steve king will always be a personal favourite – cracking bloke, superb footballer, noel ashford – awesome, enough said.
    but some of the funny moments like dave flint driblin the ball from the half way line in a mid week match against weymouth, before slotting it home, paul gasgoine and chris waddle were sitting in front of me that night – gazzas comment was great – “F*$k he’s better than barnsey!!!

    as for the EFC – ETFC split – yes its a shame – but times move on and people move on.

    Phil MacMurdie

    November 24, 2011

  7. Where is my letter I sent a couple of weeks ago.

    Willie Carrick

    February 23, 2012

  8. What lovely memories, I remember Lenny well, last time I visited the club I remember seeing his cap and walking stick in a glass case what a great guy, also when as a kid I went there to see the likes of Steve Cummings , Ron Phillips or Phips footie at its best, where are Tom Unwin and Tony Lazerou now ? Happy days and fond memories.

    brian cornes

    October 25, 2012

  9. This is not so much an emotional response – more commercial – but may appeal to someone with close and dear connections with Southbury Road, etc. And, if I could get a reasonable price for this programme I am offering, I would be happy to contribute a % to the new Enfield Club Funds.
    I have what could be the only copy of the official Match programme – Enfield v Walthamstow Nov. 1936 – which was also the Official Opening of the Southbury stadium. Its in near perfect condition for its age.
    Would you know of anyone, either connected with the Club, or the Club itself, willing to pay a decent price for it? Thanks in anticipation. peter Thompson. (ps its been handed down 3 generations originally purchased by my grandad who at that time was a big Enfield supporter).

    Peter Thompson

    December 29, 2012

  10. My brother and I used to get free entry to Southbury Road, as we both played for the youth team. or a couple of seasons we were ball boys and one frosty January evening in the early 1990s we were mascots (with Mark Pye leading the team out that night).
    Such a sorry state of affairs when Southbury Road was sold off, but i’m delighted that Enfield once again has a team playing in the borough. Unfortunately I have moved to Hampshire now and am still trying to get up to Donkey Lane for my first match at the new stadium.
    Many of my finest childhood memories were from Southbury Road, playing Cardiff in the FA Cup, winning the league (only to be denied promotion due to ground inferiorities and the songs on the terraces throuhout the 1990s. Hopefully we will witness scenes like this once again at Donkey Lane in the coming years!

    Mark Shapland

    September 26, 2013

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